Home > The Ultimate Guide to Painting a Drywall Ceiling

The Ultimate Guide to Painting a Drywall Ceiling

How to paint a ceiling without losing your mind. A friendly guide for humans.
Disclaimer: The images featured on this page are for illustrative purposes and do not depict actual historical events, people, or places.

Painting a ceiling seems simple. Roll some paint on, call it a day, right? Not quite. That big, blank surface over your head is surprisingly tricky, and a bad paint job will stare down at you forever. Here's how to do it right the first time, without getting a sore neck or paint in your hair (well, maybe a little).

Get Your Supplies

Choosing Your Paint and Primer

The most important choice you'll make is the paint's sheen. Always, always use a flat (or matte) finish on a ceiling. This isn't about style, it's about physics.

A split image showing the difference between a ceiling painted with flat paint, which looks smooth, and one with glossy paint, which reflects light and shows imperfections.

Glossy paint reflects light like a mirror, which shows off every single bump, tool mark, and mistake. Flat paint scatters light in all directions, which magically hides those little flaws. Your drywall is never perfectly flat, so flat paint is your best friend.

You also need primer. Primer is not just thin paint, it's a special coating that solves problems and helps the topcoat look great. For brand new, unpainted drywall, you need a PVA drywall primer. It seals the surface so the paint doesn't look blotchy.

For a ceiling that's already painted but has stains, like from an old water leak or smoke, you need a stain-blocking primer. This stuff acts like a chemical barrier, trapping the stain so it can’t bleed through your new paint. For really tough stains, an oil-based or shellac primer is your best bet.

Gathering Your Gear

Good tools make the job easier and give you a better result. You don't need a lot, but you need the right stuff. Think of it as your ceiling-painting toolkit.

All the necessary ceiling painting tools laid out neatly on a drop cloth.

First, a good roller cover. Get a 3/8-inch or 1/2-inch nap, which is the length of the fibers. Cheap covers shed lint into your paint... not a good look. Get a quality woven or microfiber one.

Next, an extension pole for your roller. This lets you paint from the floor with long, even strokes. It saves your back, your neck, and keeps you from constantly wobbling on a ladder.

For the edges, you'll need a good 2.5-inch angled brush. The angle helps you paint a clean, straight line where the ceiling meets the wall. You'll also need a paint tray, drop cloths (canvas, not slippery plastic!), painter's tape, and a sturdy ladder for any high-up prep work.

The All-Important Prep Work

Pros say prep is 90% of the job. It’s the boring part, but skipping it guarantees a lousy finish. Don't skip the boring part.

Secure the Room

First, get everything out of the room. If you can't move a giant sofa, push it to the middle and cover it completely. Cover the entire floor with canvas drop cloths and tape them down at the baseboards.

A living room fully prepped for ceiling painting, with furniture covered and floors protected by drop cloths.

Now for the important bit, electrical safety. Turn off the power to any ceiling lights or fans at the circuit breaker box. Then, double-check that the power is off with a non-contact voltage tester. Getting zapped is not part of the plan.

Clean and Patch

Your ceiling is dirtier than you think. It's covered in dust, cobwebs, and maybe even a thin layer of grease. The paint won't stick to that, so give it a good cleaning with a sponge mop and mild soap.

Look for any dings, cracks, or "nail pops" (where a screw head is pushing out the drywall). To fix a nail pop, drive a new drywall screw an inch or two away to re-secure the panel, then hammer the old nail back in. Use a putty knife to slightly widen any cracks into a V-shape so the patch will stick better.

A close-up of a hand using a putty knife to apply spackling compound to a small crack in a drywall ceiling.

Fill these spots with spackling compound, applying thin layers. Once it's dry, sand it perfectly smooth. Sanding makes a ton of dust, so wear a mask and try to seal off the room.

Critical Step: You MUST spot-prime every single patch you made. If you don't, the spackle will suck up paint differently, and you'll see every repair through the final coat. A little dab of primer now saves a lot of swearing later.

Time to Paint

Cutting In The Edges

"Cutting in" is painting the border of the ceiling with your brush. Paint a 2 to 3-inch wide strip where the ceiling meets the walls and around any light fixtures. Go slow and aim for a nice, straight line.

A steady hand using an angled brush to paint a clean, straight line where the white ceiling meets a colored wall.
Pro Tip - The Wet Edge: Don't cut in the whole room at once. The secret to a perfect finish is keeping a "wet edge." Cut in just one wall's length, then immediately start rolling that section. This lets the brushed paint and rolled paint blend together seamlessly.

The Main Event: Rolling

The key to avoiding streaks and ugly lap marks is to work fast and smart. Load your roller with paint, but not so much that it's dripping. Start rolling in a big "W" or "M" pattern in a 3-by-3 foot section.

A diagram or photo showing the W or M pattern rolling technique on a ceiling to ensure even paint coverage.

Then, fill in that "W" with parallel strokes, overlapping a little each time. Always roll back into the wet paint of the section you just finished. The final, light strokes for each section should all go in the same direction, usually toward the main window.

The Second Coat

Yes, you probably need a second coat. It gives you deep, even color and a more durable finish. Let the first coat dry completely first, check the paint can for the recommended "recoat time," usually about 4 hours. Don't rush it!

The Finish Line... and Beyond

Cleanup and The Long Wait

Once you're done, pull off the painter's tape while the paint is still a bit soft. If you wait until it's fully dry, it can peel the paint off with it. Pull slowly at a 45-degree angle.

Wash your good brushes and rollers with warm, soapy water so they're ready for your next project. For leftover latex paint, you can let small amounts dry out completely (add cat litter to speed it up) and then throw the solid chunk in the trash. Never pour paint down the drain.

Patience is Key: Your ceiling will feel "dry to the touch" in a few hours, but it's not fully "cured" (hardened) for up to 30 days. This means the paint is still fragile, so be gentle with it for the first month.

Whoops! How to Fix Common Mistakes

See ugly streaks or bands? You probably didn't keep a wet edge. The only real fix is to lightly sand the whole ceiling and paint it again. Sorry.

Paint peeling off a ceiling, revealing the old surface underneath, a common painting mistake.

If old stains are bleeding through your new paint, you used the wrong primer. You'll have to clean the spot, prime it with a serious stain-blocker (oil or shellac-based), and then repaint.

Is the paint peeling? That means you painted over a dirty or damp surface. You have to scrape and sand off all the loose stuff, fix the underlying problem (like a leak), clean, prime, and repaint.

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